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Sculpted Obliterator Final - front

My First Sculpt Pt 5: An Obliterator – Finished!

With some nice time off from work I was able to finish the Obliterator that I had sculpted. Paint wise there wasn’t much left to do, just some touch-ups and finish the base.

Sculpted Obliterator Final - front

The skull mast came from the defiler kit, the chain arm from the sentinels, and the shoulder plates from the marauders.

Sculpted Obliterator Final - right

I spent a lot of time trying to blend the organic, blue tissue into the metal by high lighting the flesh with silver tones and washing the metal with blue.

Sculpted Obliterator Final - Left

I had also started the second obliterator a few days ago while waiting for some paint to dry. For Christmas my wonderful wife got me a package of Procreate Putty which I have to say is a fantastic alternative to green-stuff. The procreate is not nearly as sticky as green stuff is but adheres very well to the model. It is also stiffer than gs which made creating the robe much easier as I didn’t have to ‘paint’ super glue onto the end of the tatters to keep them in place.

Here is a quick teaser shot of the two of them together:

Finished Obliterator 1 with WIP Oblit 2

I will be posting some more pictures of the second WIP obliterator tomorrow with some of the steps I took to build him up.

WIP Sculpted Obliterator - part 4

My First Sculpt Pt 4: An Obliterator – Long Over Due Post

So it has been a while since I picked up the brush… well continuing on then.

Did some more details on my Obilterator which brings him to a nearly finished state. I still need to finish the base and perhaps something more on the robe, but not yet sure what.

WIP Sculpted Obliterator - part 4

I had thought about adding the XIV to the shoulder plate but remembered that oblits don’t have an allegiance and just fight for who ever pays them the best. Instead I opted for the yellow chevrons on the chain blade to tie in with the rest of my army.

WIP Sculpted Obliterator - part 4 - side shot

I was struggling with separating the sash and robe since they are supposed to both be red. I have tried using different temperatures of red along with the yellow border to separate them. The sash was highlighted and shaded with cooler shades of red, the highlight was almost more blue than red actually. The robe used warmer shades of red to highlight and shade. I’m not sure if I like how it turned out, but perhaps it is just that the robe doesn’t look “finished.”

Any ideas?

WIP Obliterator Sculpt 9 - Blue Painted

My First Sculpt Pt 3: An Obliterator – Base Coat Done

Spent some time painting the Obliterator. After priming it black, it is amazing how all the details (and mistakes) pop out.

WIP Obliterator Sculpt 7 - Primed

I then did the base coat of all the colors to block it out. Mechrite Red for the robes, Mithril Silver to the steel, Dwarven Bronze for the piping, and Ice Blue for the metallic flesh. The whole model was then washed with Devlan Mud.  The blue ended up looking nasty, dirty bubble gum, but thats ok since I will be repainting it anyway.WIP Obliterator Sculpt 8 - Base Coat

Which I did next. I wanted to try a blue, lava-like texture that blends into the metal. Not sure of the result, it looks too shiny. Any ideas for fixing it?
WIP Obliterator Sculpt 9 - Blue Painted

Next up is the red robe, which will the much more difficult piece to paint as I am hoping to do some freehand trim.

WIP Sculpted Obliterator - 4

My First Sculpt Pt 2: An Obliterator – sculpt nearly finished

Got some more work done on my Obliterator sculpt. I filled in more of the front foot by adding pistons to each of the toes. I also added the upper robe and shoulder blades from the Fantasy Chaos Knights box.

WIP Sculpted Obliterator - 4

The ball on the end of the gun will shortly become an eye ball. Also need to add the wiring from the arms to the back.WIP Sculpted Obliterator - 5

I also photoshop’d the image to get an (rough) idea of what the coloring will look like. I’m not sure how I’m going to paint the flesh-metal but it will probably be a dark gray or purple, any ideas would be appreciated 😉WIP Sculpted Obliterator - 6 - Photoshop'd to add color

My First Scupt: An Obliterator – WIP – and why I had Green Stuff

So I’ve developed this habit: when I try something new, I go all out and skip to the hard stuff. See my Mentor Legion post when I wanted to try painting white armor. See my WIP (kinda dead-in-progress right now) Scratch built Titan.

Well the newest thing I decided to ‘try out’ is sculpting. I’ve done some green stuff work to fill gaps and create some honor badges for my Iron Warrior Chosen, but I haven’t done any true sculpting.Well after scouring FTW, The Painting Corp, and Massive Voodoo for how to sculpt and digging through the Chaos Codex (all three editions), Horus Heresy: Collected Visions, and Iron Warrior for ideas I grabbed my tools and got to work. Below are some very rough WIP shots of the first Obliterator (eventually I will do three).

WIP Scupted Oblitorator - 1

Obviously, there is still plenty of work to do on the upper half, but eventually the robe will continue on his upper half, including a draping hood.

WIP Scupted Oblitorator - 2

The left arm (the one with the chain blade) is not attached so I can finish the cloak. Once the cloak is done and the arm is attached I’m planning on adding pre-heresy style shoulder guards.WIP Scupted Oblitorator - 3

The empty sockets on the chain army and gun will have more guitar wire coming out and attaching to the back (see the scaring on the lower back).

As to why I hate green stuff? It seems that there is a natural attraction to any tool I try to use to place additional green stuff to the figure. I’ve been using vaseline to keep the tools from sticking, but the green stuff still seems to prefer to stick to the tools than the model itself. I’ve resorted to using a small dot of super glue where I need more green stuff to attach and pressing a blob into it. Once the glue dries up a bit I am able to work the putty around a bit. I did have a small snafu when I got some super glue on my silicon clay shaper that hardened and damage part of the tip. Any one out there have a better way of attaching additional pieces of green stuff?

Any comments would be most welcome as this is my first sculpt ever and I have two more obilterators left to go.

Iron Warriors Rhino #2 - Done - Front

Iron Warriors Rhino 2 Done

Iron Warriors Rhino #2 - Done - FrontFinished the third and final (for now) Rhino for my Iron Warriors army (see the first and second here). This one I tried a few new things. The first is the scratched metal. I tried using an old, terrible brush and splayed the bristles to create parallel streaks. I don’t think they all work out well, but it is something to build off of.

Iron Warriors Rhino #2 - Top

The second is the free-hand Chaos star on the top hatch. I took the design from one I found in the 4th edition Codex showing the dual rings and 3d shape. I don’t think I pulled it off how I wanted, but for a first attempt, I’m happy with it.Iron Warriors Rhino #2 - Left

For this tank, I decided to put the stripes on the outer faces of the smoke stacks. Keeping it simple was needed to retain the tank from becoming too busy with the start, chain and skulls and havoc launcher.Iron Warriors Rhino #2 - Right

And here is all three in their finished states (click for a bigger picture!).Three Iron Warriors Rhinos

I have a couple of random projects I want to do next (one currently in progress) before continuing the completion of my Iron Warriors or traitor guard. Stay tuned!

Dark Elf Reaper Bolt Thrower

Ahh… the dreaded Reaper Bolt Thrower. Not much to be said about it other than this is another paint job from the beginning of the army but other than the metal areas I think it looks pretty good and looks great for a table-top piece.

I had created a larger base for the unit but in never got passed to the primed black stage, perhaps when I finish it I will repost with the unit on the base.

Iron Warriors Rhino 4 - Right Side

Iron Warriors Rhino #4 Done

This is my fourth Iron Warriors Rhino finished. Complete with plenty of chevrons and looking fittingly dirty.

Iron Warriors Rhino 4 - Left

Finished up the details on Rhino #4 which mostly entailed the stripes and spotlight. After the last Rhino’s attempt at doing the strips freehand I decided to cheat a bit on this one and mask the black areas off with scotch tape.Iron Warriors Rhino 4 - Right

I started by taping all the area around where I wanted black so I could spray it. I then took some clear masking fluid and sponged it into the area. This way I could take an eraser to it and uncover the metal area underneath.

Iron Warriors Rhino 4 - Right Side

I then sprayed it black, waited for it to dry and then covered it with scotch tape. After marking out each strip, I cut it apart with the handy knife and removed the tape where I wanted the yellow. After painting up the yellow, I removed the tape and washed the whole thing with a sepia wash. Once that was dry, I rubbed off the clear masking fluid to finish the worn effect.Iron Warriors Rhino 4 - Top Side

Overall I’m happy with how the stripes turned out with this technique, which is good because it was very tedious.Iron Warriors Rhinos 3 & 4

And here are the two finished Rhinos together. Work has started on the last Rhino of this group and will hopefully have it done later this week.

You can see the other Rhinos completed:

And check out my painting tutorial for Iron Warriors where I break down the nitty gritty.

As always comments are welcome and appreciated!

Today’s Tip: Editing with GIMP

Ok so you have a descent camera, a light box, and nice looking models you want to share with world. Now what? Well for me I spend a few minutes to edit each picture before posting it online.

My program of choice:

This is an open source (and free) version of Photoshop that can do way more than I will ever need but it does the things I do need very well.

For this tutorial I will go over cropping and white balance.

Cropping

There may be ways to take the perfect picture so that you don’t need to crop out the extra white space but I find that if I zoom in to the point the model fills the screen the depth of field is too narrow and much of the model is blurry. Below is a pre-cropped image from my light box from my recently finished terminator squad.

GIMP Tutorial - Original Picture

This is an easy fix in GIMP: click on the rectangular select tool and drag it so it roughly contains your model. Now there should be a dotted box around your model.

GIMP Tutorial - Cropping

If it doesn’t fit just right you can click inside the box and move your cursor towards the edge you want to move in or out until a box appears on the edge. You can then click and drag this box to move the edge of your selection. Once you have the perfect fit click on Image->Crop to Selection.

GIMP Tutorial - Image cropped

Just by removing most of the extra white space around the models they present better and the viewer can focus on the models rather than try to pick them out of the sea of whiteness.

White Balance

Most digital cameras have a way to adjust the white balance of the picture but don’t always work as well as they could (mostly user error in my own case).  White balance is the major contributor of ‘off colors’ in an image assuming the models are lit well with non-yellow bulbs.  GIMP has a great tool that quickly, and usually acuratly, readjusts the white balance so whites really are white and the blacks black. This is found under Colors->Auto->White Balance

GIMP Tutorial - Auto White Balance

This not only makes the contrast between light and dark clearer but also makes the colors more vibrant but is not completely perfect. In the picture above you may notice that the white background has a somewhat blue hue to it. Not a big deal but it does mean that the auto balance didn’t quite get it. To fix this you can manually adjust the white balance using the Levels tool.

GIMP Tutorial - Showing the Levels

In the picture above I reset the auto balance to make the changes more apparent but I’ll often use the auto adjust and then fine tune it with the levels tool. The Levels tool window shows a histogram of the various shades from black to white. As you can see there is a large peak near the upper side that corresponds to the large amount of white in the picture (the poster board) but is not actually at the edge of the graph. To fix this you can click on the eye dropper underneath the gram on the right side. The tool tip will call this the ‘Pick white point’ button. Your cursor will then turn into the tear dropper, click it on your picture where you want to designate to be pure white. Try clicking it in various parts of the models too to get an idea of what it is doing.

GIMP Tutorial -  white-dropperYou can see that it instantly brightens the picture but may wash out some of the depth. To fix this we may need to adjust the black level. You can try to use the ‘pick black point’ button like the white one above but I find this doesn’t often work as well. Instead try grabbing the small, black triangle under the graph and slide it to the right. You probably won’t need to go to far before seeing the difference. Here it is a mater of balance between showing details in the darker areas, or giving a more realistic shadowing.

GIMP Tutorial - Black slider

You now have a nice, cropped and white balanced picture for others to enjoy. Further steps may include adding a ‘watermark’ to the image or overlaying it into a neat background.

Iron Warrior Terminator Squad 4

I hope you found this tip helpful and let me know if you have any photo editing tips you would like to share.


Dark Elf Chariot

Dark Elf Chariot

Dark Elf Chariot

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Next up in my Dark Elf Army postings is the neat, but ineffective Cold One Chariot. This was also one of the first I painted when getting back into the hobby so forgive the not-so-great painting 🙂 As much as the temptation is to go back and repaint the model, it is good enough to sit on the table and I would rather focus on the units I have yet to paint.

In some ways I am glad they didn’t redo the chariot with the new cold ones. As cool as the new dinos look for the knights, I like the look of the bulkier beasts for the chariot. Though it they redid the whole model in plastic I would probably buy another, though this model hasn’t found it into many of my army lists in 7th edition, and may even less in 8th.

Dark Elf Chariot - Front Left SideDark Elf Chariot - Front SideDark Elf Chariot - Left SideAny one have success using chariots in 8th edition? On the plus side they can no longer be auto-killed with S7+ hits but being single model units they would have a tough time against those giant hordes and their ridiculous attacks and combat res.

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Iron Warrior Terminator Squad 4

Iron Warriors Terminator Squad 4 Complete

Iron Warrior Terminator Squad 4

So as I continue to balance between completing old units and finishing new ones (see the Mentor Legion guys I just finished) I have put the finishing touches on my 4th Iron Warriors Terminator squad (WIP shots here).

Iron Warrior Terminator Squad 4

There wasn’t much left to finish on this squad. I finished the base using my new style and painted on the XIV to mark them as part of the 14th Grand Company.

Standard bolter and power ax with the obligatory Space Marine helmet.

Iron Warriors Terminator 1

Heavy flamer and power fist with the cool helmet from the Sorcerer Lord kit.Iron Warriors Terminator 2

Chainfist time and a trophy rack with my Brother-in-law’s Hive Fleet Behemoth head on display.Iron Warriors Terminator 3

Combi-flamer and another power ax.Iron Warriors Terminator 4

This is by far the coolest chainfist, fitting I also give him the combi-meltagun.Iron Warriors Terminator 5One more squad off the painting table and marked green in the status page! Next up is the rhinos…